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Amigurumi Crochet Teddy Bear Pattern

    Hello dear amigurumi followers, we add a new one to the free amigurumi pattern. You can always follow us to reach the newest, most popular, most accurate pattern. Here is Amigurumi Teddy Bear Crochet Pattern;

    Free Amigurumi Crochet Teddy Bear Pattern

    Abbreviations

    MR- Magic ring
    Ch- Chain
    Inc- Increase
    Dec- Decrease
    Sc- Single crochet
    Hdc- Half double crochet
    Dc- Double crochet

    Materials

    • The bear is knitted from Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%)
    • Crochet hook 1.25.

    Note: The bear is knitted in one piece from the feet to the top of the head. Be sure to use a frame so that the toy holds shape, and most importantly the head, because the neck of the bear is very thin.

    We start crocheting from the legs. The marker passes strictly behind the leg.

    Legs (Make 2)

    Left leg

    9 ch
    We start crocheting in the second loop of the chain.
    Rnd 1. 7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc (18)
    Rnd 2. inc, 6sc, (inc)*3, 6sc, (inc)*2 (24)
    Rnd 3. 1sc, inc, 6hdc, (1sc, inc)*3 6hdc, (1sc, inc)*2 (30)
    Rnd 4. inc, 4 hdc, 8dc, (inc,dec)*3, 8dc, 4hdc, (inc)*2 (36)
    Rnd 5-7. 36 sc (3 rnds)
    Rnd 8. (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
    Rnd 9. 30 sc (30)
    Rnd 10. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)+ 1 loop
    Rnd 11. 3 sc, (1sc,dec)*6,3sc, 3sc (18)
    Start stuffing your foot. Do not fill the sock too much, there will be tightenings for fingers.

    Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35 cm) make a loop, insert it into the foot and stuff it around the wire with stuffing.

    Rnd 12. 3sc, (dec)*6, 3sc, (12)
    Rnd 13-17. 12 sc (5 rnds)
    Rnd 18. 10sc, leave 2sc, do not tie to the end of the row.
    When we connect with the right leg, then these two loops will be the first loops. We tear off the thread. Fill.

    Right leg

    9 ch
    We start crocheting in the second loop of the chain.
    Rnd 1. 7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc (18)
    Rnd 2. inc, 6sc, (inc)*3, 6sc, (inc)*2 (24)
    Rnd 3. 1sc, inc, 6hdc, (1sc, inc)*3.6hdc, (1sc, inc)*2 (30)
    Rnd 4. inc, 4hdc, 8dc, (inc,dc)*3, 8dc, 4hdc, (inc)*2 (36)
    Rnd 5-7. 36 sc (3 rnds)
    Rnd 8. (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
    Rnd 9. 30 sc (30)
    Rnd 10. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)+ 1 bias loop
    Rnd 11. 3sc, (1sc,dec)*6,3sc, (18)
    Start stuffing your foot. Do not fill the sock too much, there will be tightenings for fingers.
    Now cut off a piece of wire (I have 35cm) make a loop, insert it into pad the foot and around the wire with stuffing.
    Rnd 12. 3sc, (dec)*6, 3sc, (12)
    Rnd 13-18. 12sc (6 rows) we make 2 bias loops Fill.

    We do not tear off the thread, we continue crocheting.
    Next, we will connect the legs together and into the body.

    Body

    Rnd 19. 3sc on the right leg, ch 6, now take the left leg and start knitting from the remaining untied loops 12sc, on the left leg 6sc, after ch, 9sc. On the right leg.
    Rnd 20. 3sc, 6sc. on ch, 3sc, (inc, 1sc)*3, 12 sc- (3sc. on the left leg + 6sc along the chain from ch, + 3sc. on the right leg = 12sc), (1sc, inc)*3 (42)
    After the 20th row, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.
    About the wire. Twist the two wires from the legs together, but twist only to the length of the body plus the neck, in the head the two wires should be separate.

    Rnd 21-22. 42 sc (2 rnds)
    Rnd 23. 4sc, (inc)*6, (increases, 12sc, (inc, 1sc)*6, (increases for tummy), 8sc (54)
    Rnd 24-26. 54 sc (3 rows)
    Rnd 27. (8sc, inc)*6 (60)
    Rnd 28. 60 sc (60)
    Rnd 29. 5 sc, inc, (9sc, inc)*5, 4sc (66)
    Rnd 30-37. 66 sc (8 rnds)
    Rnd 38. 40 sc, (dec, 1sc)*6, 8sc (60) decrease in the middle of the tummy.
    Rnd 39. 60 sc (60)
    Rnd 40. 35 sc, (dec, 1sc)*6, 7sc (54) decrease in the middle of the tummy.
    Rnd 41-43. 54 sc (3 rnds)
    Rnd 44. (3sc, dec)*6, 24sc (48)

    We begin to stuff the body and then, as the body is crochet, continue packing.

    Rnd 45-46. 48 sc (48)
    Rnd 47. (6sc, dec)*6 (42)
    Rnd 48. 42 sc (42)
    Rnd 49. (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
    Rnd 50. 36 sc (36)
    Rnd 51. (4sc, dec)*6 (30)
    Rnd 52. 30 sc (30)
    Rnd 53. (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
    Rnd 54. (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
    Rnd 55. 18 sc
    Stuff to the end.

    Neck

    Rnd 56. (dec)*9 (9)
    Rnd 57-58. 9 sc (2 rnds)
    We turn to crocheting the head.

    Head

    Rnd 59. (inc)*9 (18)
    Rnd 60. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
    Rnd 61. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
    Rnd 62. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
    Rnd 63. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
    Rnd 64. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
    Rnd 65. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
    Rnd 66. (8sc,inc)*6 (60)
    Rnd 67. (9sc,inc)*6 (66)
    Rnd 68. (10sc,inc)*6 (72)
    Rnd 69. (11sc,inc)*6 (78)
    Rnd 70. (12sc,inc)*6 (84)
    Rnd 71-78. 84 sc (8 rnds)

    Make such a structure out of wire as in the photo, this is for stability bear heads. The head is large on a thin neck. Will help as well bend your head to the side. From this point on, you can gradually and gently stuff your head. The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around wire stuffing. It is better to start stuffing in small lumps in order to gradually fill the entire space of the head.

    Rnd 79. 6sc, dec,(12sc,dec)*5, 6sc (78)
    Rnd 80. 78 sc (78)
    Rnd 81. (11sc,dec)*6 (72)
    Rnd 82. 72 sc (72)
    Rnd 83. 5sc, dec, (10sc,dec)*5, 5sc (66)
    Rnd 84. 66 sc (66)
    Rnd 85. (9sc,dec)*6 (60)
    Rnd 86. 60 sc (60)
    Rnd 87. 4sc, dec, (8sc,dec)*5, 4sc (54)
    Rnd 88. 54 sc (54)
    Rnd 89. (7sc,dec)*6 (48)
    Rnd 90. 48 sc (48)
    Rnd 91. 3sc, dec, (6sc,dec)*5, 3sc (42)
    Rnd 92. 42 sc (42)
    Rnd 93. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
    Rnd 94. 2sc, dec,(4sc,dec)*5, 2sc (30)
    Rnd 95. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
    Rnd 96. 1sc, dec, (2sc,dec)*5, 1sc (18)
    Rnd 97. (1sc,dec)*6 (12), Stuff.
    Rnd 98. (dec)*6

    Arms (Make 2)

    Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
    Rnd 2. (inc)*6 (12)
    Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
    Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
    Rnd 5-8. 24 sc (4 rnds)
    Rnd 9. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
    Rnd 10-11. 18 sc (2rnds)
    Rnd 12. (1sc,dec)*6 (12)
    Fill your palm, but very weakly, so that later you can pull your fingers on it.
    Rnd 13-30. 12 sc (18 rnds)
    Now you need to cut off a piece of wire so that it sticks out of the handle by 1.5-2 cm longer but insert the wire only after pulling the fingers. Flatten the palm and embroider two stitches for the fingers, pulling a little. Stuff the handle a little.

    Muzzle

    From finishing yarn

    3ch
    We crochet in rotary rows, at the end of each row we make ch We start with the second loop of the chain.
    Rnd 1. (inc)*2 4sc ch turn
    Rnd 2. inc, 2sc, inc 6 sc ch turn
    Rnd 3. inc, 4sc, inc 8 sc ch turn
    Rnd 4. inc, 6sc, inc 10 sc ch turn
    Rnd 5. inc, 8sc, inc 12 sc ch turn
    Rnd 6. inc, 10sc, inc 14 sc ch turn
    Rnd 7-16. 14 sc (10rnds) ch turn
    Rnd 17. dec,10sc,dec 12sc ch turn
    Rnd 18. dec, 8sc,dec 10sc ch turn
    Rnd 19. dec, 6sc,dec 8sc ch turn
    Rnd 20. dec, 4sc,dec 6sc ch turn
    Rnd 21. dec, 2sc,dec 4sc ch turn
    Rnd 22. (dec)*2 2sc

    Tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc.

    Ears (Make 2)

    Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
    Rnd 2. (inc)*6 (12)
    Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
    Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
    Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
    Rnd 6-9. 30 sc (4rnds)

    Fold the ear in half and tie the bottom edge in two layers 15 sc.

    Inner ear

    2 details.
    9 ch
    We crochet in rotary rows, at the end of the row do ch. we start crocheting from the second loop of the chain.
    Rnd 1-3. 8sc, (3 rnds) ch turn
    Rnd 4. dec,4sc,dec 6sc ch turn
    Rnd 5. dec,2sc,dec 4sc, break the thread.
    Sew the ear neatly into the main ear.
    The inner ear can be cut out of fabric.

    Belly pad (1 pcs)

    Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
    Rnd 2. (inc)*6 (12)
    Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
    Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
    Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
    Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
    Break the thread.

    Assembly

    Before starting the assembly, you need to comb all the parts. Can Velcro, you can use a slicker. Comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts. Colored pins can be inserted in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head, so that when assembling, you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically.
    You can immediately sew the patch on the tummy, this will also help to determine with the center of the bear shape. Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to the muzzle did not stick out forward, but, as it were, protruded slightly forward. She located not in the center of the head, but much downward.
    Somewhere from row 65 (or through 6 rows from the neck) and up. Sew on the ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see how there are places from the sides for ears. Make a slight eye tightening. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten slightly, return, then from the neck withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck.
    Tighten a little and fasten the thread. And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, then we can with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and slightly pull, do not pull too much, otherwise they may look like they have failed. In this version, the eyes will be evenly deepened. Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion.
    But it is better that the nose is not small, I have a length of 2.5 cm If there is no nozzle suitable for the size, it is easy to make it out of plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and cover it with fabric. There are many options. Place the eyes directly above the muzzle and very close to each other. Handles sticking out with wire, insert into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows, sew on.
    Make sure your hands are symmetrical. Sew on the tummy liner on the most convex part of the abdomen, a drop add filler. Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is this is not very noticeable, but the eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same toes and toes. You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows. Cut a few strands from the main yarn and string them on the top of the head. heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string a fringe.
    Cut to desired length and fluff. This will be a forelock. A bear can be made with a felted muzzle and a felted nose. Eyes make from plastic. Sew on patches. The bear is ready. And you can decorate it as you wish.

    Valentine’s day crochet cute teddy bear amigurumi pattern is finished, happy day to all of you.

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